Everything Was Beautiful at the Ballet. And All Day.

How can one blog when one can't stop kvelling????
Plan of action. Morning of adulthood. Afternoon of change. Night of wonder. 1.2.3...
This morning, Alicia and I went to hunt down the place where we could buy renter's insurance. 45 minutes later, there I was, signing contracts and insurance papers like a real grownup. If that's what I've been looking forward to, ehhh...But I did feel very grownup taking control of insurance and things like that! Now I can say I've handled my own rent, insurance, and all. Good thing I have no idea how to go about doing such tasks in New York. Or in English. It's true- the entire transaction this morning happened in French and with no issues with language at all! No repetition, rephrasing, anything of the sort. Fluency is ahead!


After this morning's right of passage, Kate accompanied me to a salon. Unimportant to this post, but necessary background: this semester, as wonderful as it has been thus far, has also had some turbulence for me. Trying to overcome such things has forced me to need, want, desire, a change. Symbolic of this is my new RED hair. I've always wished I had red hair like my mom, and I suppose there's no better place to change hair than in Paris, I just needed to nerve and oh boy. Did I get the nerve. And I am SO glad I did! Pascal is the name of the fabulous man who oversaw my new hair. He is middle-aged, wears pointy black patten leather shoes, and too tight shirt - basically a wonderfully (famous famous) French hair stylist. Cyrille did the color and Pascal blew my hair out. I couldn't help being American - I was so excited - and so by the end, the whole salon was telling me that they loved it! Pascal tells me I am "subleem," (sublime) and "fantastique avec un couleur parfait - hyper-sexy!" This was a truly once-in-a-life time Parisian experience that came straight out of a movie (Thanks Mom and Dad!) and now I am a red-head. 

Cyrille and Pascal

I think its more conducive to my personality, and I needed the change! I LOVE IT. Pictures are on facebook :) I keep forgetting, so every time I look in the mirror its like "who is that? Oh! C'est moi!" 


Goodbye Hillary. Bonjour EeeLahRee! (before and after)


                    

Tonight, Clare and I went to the ballet at the Garnier Opera House. This building was so beautiful in pictures, but in person, I have never seen anything even close. This is now my favorite place in Paris. I was humbled, and inspired, and speechless. After the ballet, Clare and I stood in outside the building in almost total silence for a half hour just soaking it up! Even better than Versailles, all other chateaus, everywhere. A man asked us to take a picture (in terrible English - he didn't speak French either, he was Dutch). Shortly after, his nephew came and asked me to go for coffee. Tonight didn't work and he was only in Paris for a few hours, but he told me if we ever met again, like he hoped we would, then he'd take me out. A little idealistic, but very romantically European nonetheless.


Clare and I vowed to find ourselves a way to write one of our many final art history papers on some aspect of this building. As a result, we will have to spend a lot of time there, thereby making us the happiest people in the world. We also promised to have lunch there, on the front steps, at least once a week.

The ballet we saw by PETIT Roland was comprised of 3 short works. (Fun Fact: his mother, Repetto, was the inventor of ballet flats - Repetto themselves!) Each work was better than the previous - each leading up to the finale, a man suffering from a great existential crisis. All different styles, but all dramatic and equally thought-provoking. I love watching this choreography because Petit has the body move in such violent, and/or musical ways. Not musical as in harmonious, musical as in making sound.


Aside from the physical dance, it was interesting watching contemporary dance in such a grand, old theater. Kind of like the beautiful Chagall ceiling (I almost didn't want the dance to start because I was too busy looking at the ceiling!) that doesn't fit in entirely with the presentation of the rest of the theater. Many critics hate this part of the Opera house, but I love it. The Chagall ceiling exhibits various symbols from ballets through the ages; a swan sitting in a pond for Swan Lake, for example. What could be more appropriate? If modern ballet (almost a contradiction in and of itself) will appear in a conservative opera house, then no one should criticize the difference in styles between the main ceiling and the overall architecture. If people want purity, maybe Versailles isn't the place for a modern Japanese exhibit.


                            


Other thoughts on the opera house? Two words, two phrases. Grand Staircase. Grand Foyer. AHHHH!!!!!!!
                 


Other happenings to make me happy: figured out my schedule, lovely skype chat with Sabrina, Jake is staying with me, ice cream, and housemates getting me into Vampire Diaries.
All in a day's work.

A Demain!

Just a Tease...

Tomorrow's post brings much change and excitement....
That's all I'll tell you for now!


Hint: His name is Pascal and he said that tomorrow, he'll make me sublime. Actually, he said "subleem" with his French accent. Either way, stay posted!


Paris is turning habitual. Class, food, food, wandering, food, finally getting some work, really starting to know my way around. Lots and lots of laughs.


Major scheduling problems, and I may have gotten a babysitting job!


In other news, apparently the US is hearing about all these terrorist threats in Paris. I must say, I've heard nothing of the sort except from those at home, other than Eiffel Tower evactuations. Even those doesn't seem out of the ordinary, though, and everything here seems to be A-OK. Don't worry!! So far so good, and I'll let you know if there's anything to be concerned about! Thing only thing to worry about should be about me getting to class on time because of all these metro strikes, or les grèves.


Sorry this is so short, but it is 1:31am, not to be confused with 13:31, or 1:31pm. I learned a great short cut to analyze army time since I am so bad at it. I just don't know why its necessary! What ever time it is, subtract 2 from the number (not including 1 if its double digits) and drop the 1! So, if its 13:31, 3-2=1, its 1:31pm! But I digress....


As I was saying, it is 1:31 here and I am only awake lamenting the fact that Glee is airing in roughly 30 minutes at home. wompwomp. Oh the things we miss most from home! Glee, peanut butter, and jelly beans, and Melvin. Other than that, Paris tops all!


Good night, sweet dreams, and someone email me about Glee!
Biggest news coming tomorrow!
Yours truly,
eelahree la subleem

From Trashy to Classy!

Even though I'm sick, I refuse to miss out on any truly "Parisian" experiences. Aka the Techno Parade, which marched across Paris and ended at the Bastille. I met up with Kate's French friend and some of his friend's after breakfast and they were so cool! Really French (honest and forward) and very friendly, smart, and très très chic. If nothing else can be said, these guys know how to dress! Once I could hear the parade though, Alicia, Diana, and myself left to meet Julie and join in on the fun. 


How to describe the parade? Fun. Loud. Insane. Total chaos. Moving mosh pit. Giant dance party. I don't know that there is anything in New York quite like it. The procession was divided into quarters, each fourth following a techno float blaring its music as loud as possible, and the techno was really good! Everyone around us was screaming, and drinking, and smoking, and passed out on the streets, and dancing on top of bus stops, climbing trees, publicly urinating, apparently there was a gunshot (?), and the gendarmes ruled the sidewalks. Guys ran around kissing everything and everyone they saw. I still can't tell if I actually enjoyed it, or if I'm still in shock that I actually had a blast partaking in this city-wide event and was still living by the time we got to the Bastille! If nothing else can be said, the French know how to rave and it was truly memorable. Not going to lie - this was a little outside my comfort zone but that's what this experience is about right? And from now on, we're going to the techno clubs because the music is actually good!
                

We went to Versailles today! But, before I go on with Versailles, there is a very important topic we must cover. I learned the true meaning of the word MUSTACHIO.  Not just mustache. But mustachio, because as you will see, there is a difference. Waiting on the never-ending, freezing cold, line to enter, I turned around, and there was the largest mustache-man I've ever seen! There he is! My new best friend who promoted me to the status of best creeper in the world. I hope he never finds my blog. Or my facebook. Because he is my picture.

Today we went to Versailles! It is imperative I find myself a prince! Or a king would be fine too.. I love chateaus, and am desperate to learn all the secret passageways within the castle! I walked through with my good friend Liz, who, unlike SOME people (Sabrina), actually begged me to keep lecturing about Louis XIV, Revolution, etc...and analyzing all the art. What a pleasure to do such a thing - and she was worried about annoying me! If only others loved that just as much. "The Coronation of Josephine," by David, is one of my favorite paintings I thought I would find in the louvre. Imagine my ecstasy when I walked into the room exiting the Hall of Mirrors and saw a full-wall of that very painting! My Christmas-break-2009-puzzle!!! Right in front of me! It felt like une petite heart attack! I love art. I could live amongst these artists forever. 

My only issue with Versailles is that there is presently a modern Japanese exhibit throughout the chateau. I think the purpose is to blend the old with the new, and you can call me an art snob, a purist, whatever need be, but I think it ruined everything. When I walk down the Hall of Mirrors, something I imagined doing since I first read about it in 3rd grade, I don't want a modern, anime styled, vibrantly colored ball waiting for me. I'm just saying... 


                      

Having said that, it was truly beautiful. Unlike many other chateaus and royal homes, Versailles was homey. The walls were all warm colored fabrics and nothing was sparse. I loved every second! I bought myself another mug for my collection. It's the classical shape from the time of Versailles and is a beautiful azure blue with a gold fleur-de-lis on either side (the symbol of France). Now I have a royal mug! This whole day was just a constant reminder that I was born into the wrong time period...


Seeing my puzzle in the real flesh painting inspired me to speed on ahead with my puzzle at home! Tonight I didn't have much homework so I worked on my puzzle of the Unicorn Tapestries. I can't wait to finish it so I can go buy a new one from the Louvre! 


Going to the doctor in the morning because I keep waking up wheezing and I have a wicked cough still :( 

Birds, and Cream Cheese, and Colds, Oh My!

It was a wonderful thing having no wednesday class! I woke up, and went to the Arc de Triomph to take lots of pictures! I wondered around the Champs-Élysées, and now that I've been as touristy as possible, I can cross it off my "List of Things to See in Paris." After passing out while reading Harry Potter in the Tuileries, I thought it might be a good idea to return home and nap/work on my puzzle before going over to my friends house for dinner. She found the latest episode of Gossip Girl on some illegal site and so we were going to have an American party and watch it! 


I personally think my friend and I brought the best asset to the meal. A real delicacy. PHILADELPHIA CREAM CHEESE! We found this store called "Thanksgiving," that sells everything from America! Walking in was like a little slice of home I never wanted to leave behind. Jello, Kraft Macaroni and Cheese, Hellman's products, Aunt Jemima pancake batter, the list goes on and on. Never mind that the cream cheese cost almost $7. Moral of the story? You can get home, but it'll cost ya!


Bad news. Thursday was a rotten horrible terrible no good very bad day. For many reasons, but I will spare you most of them. For one, I became sick with a monster cold. Those things tend to put dampers on your day and crush your system a little bit. Wednesday night, I was skyping with mom in my bed with the lights off before I went to sleep and got out of bed to put my computer away before my eyes had adjusted to the dark with no computer on. As I bent down blindly, I banged my eye into my fireplace and....well...now I look tough? Between the cold and the bruise, waking Thursday morning was no pleasure of mine. On the up side, my roommate Ali and I have booked a weekend to Sicily as a getaway from trivial emotional trials and tribulations! I cannot wait to see her. The only rule is its just us. All weekend. 


Yesterday NYU took us to spend the day in the small northern medieval town of Provins. We got a tour of all the architecture, and got to climb up into the dungeon! Chouette (very cool)! This was closely followed by a 5 (yes, 5) course meal with kir, and aperitif, and both a red wine and a white wine, depending on the course. It was a true Parisian lunch. And truly delicious. The Falconry show succeeding lunch was equally enjoyable. The pamphlet introduced the show as "a Falconry and Equestrian show unrivaled in Europe," but it was so ridiculous that I'm pretty convinced that its unrivaled because there is no other one on Europe. I'm not one for birds (they tend to release certain excrements on my head too often) but I was totally enthralled. Mostly because Alicia and I narrated the story line. There was in fact a story line! I was feeling really low from my cold at this point so trying to follow the narrator in French was a bit of a struggle. In my head, the woman had her choice of suitor based on who had the best plumage and most wonderful bird. I'm not really sure where the evil horseback rider and snow owl came in, but I'm sure I can make room for them! Costumes were great, and for the first time (ironically in France and not the US) I saw a bald eagle! Our bird! All the Americans cheered :) I'll post pictures soon - be sure to look! 


You should all be very proud...I took a bus there and back. Go me!!!!!!!!!


Last night was one of my good friend's, Liz's, birthday! We went over to her apartment and then went out dancing to celebrate. At this point, my head was all sinus-ey (not sure if that's a word, but now you know exactly how I was feeling!) so I headed home a little early and went to sleep in the hopes of waking up with a voice that actually makes me sound like a woman. No such luck, but my head is feeling a little better! Today is the long-awaited techno parade through Paris (techno is big here), followed by a night long techno soirée everywhere in the city! Before I go to that, I must put the list of cultural activities we received yesterday into my calendar (its such an exciting and long, rich, list!) and make my breakfast. I'm feeling sunny-side-up egg on toast this morning with orange juice! I think we're all meeting Kate's French friend later and I believe he's bringing all his friends so it'll be a big America, meet France. I can't wait to make more French friends! Somewhere in this day I've got to figure out how to say "sinus infection" in French so I can go to the pharmacy. It's no fun feeling this sick :(


I'll let you know how the techno parade goes. And I promise not to do the robot. Really. I won't.
Lots of love and can't wait to give you the next update! xox

An American Girl in Paris: Part Une

Classes have officially commenced! Lucky for me however, I do not have class on Wednesdays, so today's just going to be about an American girl taking on Paris - trying to find the perfect balance between tourism and classy, chocolate pastries and real protein, and strolling and shopping! 


Monday, as it turns out, I only have one class and it doesn't meet until 5:45 in the evening (quite conducive to a weekend traveling schedule, if I don't say so myself).


Did I mention that NYU maintains a strict, non-negotiable, no Friday class policy? That's right. I only have classes on Tuesdays and Thursdays! Of course, my Sorbonne classes will probably be on Wednesdays when they start, but even still, I am enjoying the leisurely and comparably frivolous life that is NOT pre-med. Having said that, my biggest adjustment is learning how to have free time. I hate the feeling of unproductiveness, so good thing I live in a museum city! At the end of this post, I will be picking a random metro stop and off to explore that neighborhood!


Its a sad realization I came to yesterday - that I do not know how to stroll! I practiced in the Luxembourg Gardens and think I was quite successful. 


Site of my first stroll:




Its been years since I have been able to go somewhere without time pressure or some kind of known endpoint. What freedom!!!!! All this leisure is somewhat intimidating - I keep thinking theres a lab I'm missing, or a class I forgot to go to! As a result, I made a goal for myself. I wandered around the French Borders yesterday (super confusing) and picked up a copy of the first Harry Potter book in French. Don't laugh! I plan on having read all 7 in all the parks around Paris by the time the semester ends. It happens to be the perfect vocabulary lesson because I have read them so many times, that instead of having to look up words every sentence, I can associate the French phrases with the known English sentences stored in my head! First page, and I already knew that perceuses meant drills, all because I know Mr. Dudley works Grunnings, the production factory.




Classes. So far, they are great! I am taking a class called Cities, Landscapes, and Monuments, with a dynamic, old, tubby professor who doesn't speak a word of english, but loves sound effects. The class is basically an overview on the urban design and progression of Paris. Only met once, but so far so good. My other class, Advanced Conversation, is going to be a bit of work. It meets twice a week, and is filled with lessons of formal speech, colloquial French, standardized French, and lots of slang. My professor is Patrick, the same great one who taught me phonetics last week (hurray!) I am required to carry around a petit carnet, a little notebook, and fill it with at least 15 new words a day! The class also has an atelier, a workshop,  meets a third time during the week for 2 hours. During this time, we meet with French students who are registered for the same class, but in English. We are split up into small groups of 6 (half French, half NYU) and charged with writing, directing, and producing, a short film. Any topic we want, but we all have to appear in it! Americans must speak French, and the French must speak in English! Apparently I'll return as a French cinematographer! 


My favorite class is European Painters. It may be nerdy, but I get the biggest adrenaline rushes off of standard Art History Classes. My professor for this class is super chic - she looks artsy, but classy and again, doesn't speak one word of english. The class focuses on classicism, through symbolism, passing through the realists, impressionists and post-impressionists, and everything I love in-between! It meets twice a week, but only once in a classroom; we have museum trips every week! I can't wait to start making all my index cards!! I already emailed her asking for her help in determining a topic for the final paper that I could potentially turn into my honors thesis work, but really, I just wanted an excuse to go have lunch with her! We already looked at Gericault's "Raft of the Medusa" (a painting that I love, and will get to see in the flesh!!!!) on the first day. Fastest hour and a half ever. This class is paradise! =)




Ok, off to explore, people watch, buy some ballet flats, and read in the park!
Bonne journée!

No One Said Fasting Was Easy...Now Try it in Paris

What a whirlwind weekend! Luckily, Kate's family friends know a Jewish family in Paris right near the synagogue we chose for Rosh Hashanah, so they invited us for dinner before Kol Nidre! It was so nice to be with a family for the holiday - and a nice one at that. They live in a gorgeous apartment, modernly decorated with impecable taste. The praise continues...the food was fabulous. It's been a while since I've had a real home cooked meal so the Tunisian couscous with chicken, pumpkin, and other vegetables to go with the homemade challah was a real treat.

The service for Kol Nidre was great. At first, I was a little turned off aesthetically (temple at home is so pretty) but quickly realized that the quality of the service was exactly what I wanted. The best part, however, was that I felt trilingual! The service very quickly jumped from Hebrew to English to French and back again and I hardly noticed! Interesting fact: Kehilat Gesher, (the temple) is one of the only non-Orthodox synagogues in Paris.

Since Kate and I couldn't eat or drink Friday night, we opted to not hang out with everyone and go to see a French movie. DISCLAIMER: If the synopsis says comédie in French, its not a comedy - its a drama. We say "Ces Amours-La," a story following the lives of the one main woman and her various lovers during the German occupation of France during the Holocaust, and their lives in present day. Truly a beautiful film (even if it wasn't funny).

Saturday morning was spent at services again (extra long because of Shabbat) and I played my favorite game (Jewish geography) with one of the woman working there. Her daughter just started college at Tufts so I made sure to name-drop for her! The Neuthalers were in Paris this weekend so we met up with them after services. Jake, an old friend from high school, is studying abroad here for the semester too, but his classes don't start until October 1. His family came over with him to drop his stuff off and are now traveling around France. For Saturday however, Abbi, Paul, and Jake took Kate and I to see Sacre Coeur and the rest of Montmartre! They also took us for a delicious dinner to break fast - couldn't have been nicer! Kate and I kidnapped Jake after dinner and we all went to one of my friends' apartments. She also had a break fast for us and had bought bagels, lox, wine, chocolate, cheese, everything! Mom, no one beats your break fast but I was absolutely well-endowed in the food department! Fasting was exhausting so we never made it to my other friends house. Instead, several of us from the break fast went to see the Eiffel Tower light show at night! It was so sparkly and magical - almost surreal! I don't think I even blinked for several seconds!!!

Sunday means Marais! Its the only part of Paris thats not closed on Sunday, especially this sunday, because everything there was closed for Yom Kippur. A big brunch with lots of friends, shopping, gallery hopping, and people watching in Louis XIII's park later, and I was wiped. It must've been all the Jewish bakery trips and rugelah that did me in. They have real Israeli-style rugelah here! And believe me...it does not disappoint! Highlight of the afternoon? My friends laughing as I trapped myself into lecturing on Sukkot. All the Jews came out on the street to try and sell the lula and etrog to passerbys for Shabbat. And there I was. Translating for the people on the street, and then having to explain what Sukkot is (not a well-known holiday I guess). Last night I started the Cloisters puzzle! Unfortunately for my housemate who was sitting by me, I ended up in full-on puzzle mode (you know how obsessive I get) and became entirely absorbed. I did the whole border! Probably not the best choice of activity to start the night before classes begin. Woops. On the upside, I deserved to do whatever I wanted to make up for the extreme disappointment of having discovered a bad crepe earlier in the day. That's right. a BAD crepe. Doughy, cold, I didn't know that was legal here!

I wanted to blog yesterday about the weekend, but I got tied up uploading many pictures onto facebook and a lengthy Pearson-family skype session (minus Melvin - mom still won't let him on the carpeting!)

Today was my first day of classes! But perhaps I'll write more on that in a little bit. Besides that fact that the topic is unrelated to this post, right now, I am too excited about and distracted by my new activity to tell you about it; I'll explain why later - if you promise not to mock my extremely cool (Sabrina will call it nerdy) activity!

Lots of love and hope everyone had an easy fast, and a delicious break (even if you didn't get to break with the wonders of French cuisine)!

Une Grande Liste

Voila ma grande liste:

1. Anood is the falafel place right across the street from me. It is family-owned by several Moroccan brothers who give my housemates and I free, sweet, delicious, natural, Moroccan tea whenever we go - which is far too often (probably why we get free tea). The other day, my housemate and I went after class and sat down at a table instead of eating "pour emporter" (eating to-go). One of the brothers came and put a small glass of espresso down at our table, so, because we always get free tea in the same glasses, we assumed that he wanted us to try the coffee. We did. And told him it was delicious (Moroccan coffee with sugar - never thought I'd like it without milk but everything is sweeter here!). And then he sat down with us. And his cup of coffee. Oops. He thought it was funny that we drank his drink and we just chalked it up to being American. You can use the American-card for anything here!

Here are some examples thus far:

You trip in the street: "I'm American"

You speak French well and get credit: "Thanks! I'm American"

You speak French badly and aren't understood: "Oops. I'm American"

Trip in the Street: "I'm a clumsy American"

People think you're adorable: "Aw thanks! Its because I'm American"

No matter what it is that happens - good, bad, proud, embarrassing - just always be American. Despite what the news might tell you, Americans (particularly New Yorkers) are adored here. But I digress. Here's a little tidbit about our new friends across the street! They love really talking to us so its the best language practice I've had yet.

2. I know you don't speak French, but there is a very famous rap by a renowned French comedy troupe, Les Inconnus, mocking the wealthiest neighborhoods in Paris: Auteuil, Neuilly and Passy. (Passy is where the NYU center is - surprise, surprise). Even if you don't understand the words, this is very French, and the point they are getting across can be universally understood! If you have time and/or are curious (I'm sure you don't), all of the translations and lyrics are also on google. Its very popular here and everyone knows it so I guess you should know I'll be coming home as a French rapper (not as good as MC Solar, though)!  No one raps it with a legit dance like Patrick my phonetics professor.

3. I received a fellowship to complete while I'm here with the United Way Association and we had our first meeting last night! Talk about intimidating! I applied for this on a whim and no one knew anything about it, so imagine my surprise when I walk into a HUGE, grand and ornate estate for this first meeting. Red carpets, chandeliers, fabric walls, oy vay. I still am a little confused as to where this project is going, but I think it'll be great. There are 6 of us - 3 French, 3 NYU, ranging from 20 years old to 29 - who are charged with putting together a project to promote volunteerism in Paris. Frenchies speak in English, we speakin French. Overall though, its a French project. That's all I know so far. That, and we get some cool sponsors, like Disney, and at the end, we get present to get approval from the United Way In   ternational Committee and the US Ambassador to France! Cool! I guess its a big deal..

4. During a discussion, I told my class the other day "Je suis en accord" instead of "Je suis d'accord." The latter means "I agree." The former means "I am in an accord with someone," as in "I have found my true love and we are inexplicably linked with the fates. We are of the same mind, heart, soul, destiny, and belong together forever." We were discussing the differences between private life and public life here and in the United States. WOOPSIES. (Mostly because I argued I was right. And have used the statement very frequently outside class. Poor Patrick who had to explain that one. Or poor me rather...)

5. The other night, I met up with an old friend who is studying abroad in Berlin for the semester. We haven't spoken to each other in years, but I guess when you both end up in Paris, its nice to touch base. Its a small world. And a fun night; always interesting to be with old people in new places. On the way back to my apartment at night (the metro system is totally safe all the time - entirely different from New York, but that's for another post).

6. Ahhh. Trips. I am still shopping for my classes at the Sorbonne. The inside of the building is not what you might think, aka we are spoiled rotten. More like high school/NYC public school and the layout is confusing! Only the 3rd year masters students get to take their classes in the famous building of the Sorbonne complex. Its very different from anything I've experienced. Everyone is dressed impeccably and more importantly, very very nice.  They all want an American friend! So, enter Hillary into the French social scene. Not much to say yet because classes don't start there until October. Next weekend though, NYU is taking us on a day trip to Provins, an old walled medieval city, and then I believe a bunch of us might take an overnight trip to Mont. St Michel. The following weekend is Brussels!

7. My apartment has a puzzle of the Unicorn Tapestries in the Cloisters museum. We know how I love puzzles...

8. The French are not fans of skim milk. Nor does any one brand of skim milk taste the same. The never ending search for non-exhorbitantly-priced skim milk is on!

THE PRELIM CLASS IS FINALLY OVER!! Nothing but happiness about that! Last night to celebrate, we went to a fondue party and were worry free because for this one weekend, we have no homework! We met lots of French people who invited us out with them next weekend. Today I woke up as late as I wanted and tackled laundry. Buying more underwear is no longer an option. Its been almost 3 weeks and so laundry imposed itself on my morning. Good thing I can't understand what is written on the machine. At least I don't have to carry my clothes to the laundromat, though! Lost of errands today because everything closes Sunday and I don't want to run errands when I'm fasting for Yom Kippur (psyched for Kol Nidre tonight - its my favorite service of the year!) and because this weekend is packed already! More on that in tomorrow's post, though.  Laundry, school supply shopping, nail polish remover, more milk (always more milk), a day in the life!

(Feel free to comment or email - I'd like to hear how all of you are doing!)
Love, love, and more amour to all; hugs and kisses from the other side of the pond!

Une Petite Liste

It's very late here right now but I don't want to fall too far behind and I have a big few days coming up. So, here is a small list of things to:
1. Hold you in suspense until I can further elaborate
2. Remind me what I have to write about


Here it is
1. Anood Falafel: crepes for dessert and our little rendez-vous with Hassan for dinner (and the TEA!)
2. A funny rap about the wealthy neighborhoods in Paris
3. United Way Fellowship and credit change
4. my embarrassing confusion with a French phrase signifying "to be in agreement with"
5. meeting up with an old friend who is studying abroad in Berlin
6. Visit to the Sorbonne/upcoming NYU trips and other trips I'm amidst planning
7. Cloisters puzzle
8. Never ending search for skim milk


Nothing else comes to mind right now. Except how EXCITED I am for this prelim. intensive course to end. GOOD RIDDANCE!! Tomorrow is the last day and I can't wait  = )
Lots of celebrating tomorrow, starting with a fondue party!
Can't wait to fill you all in soon..
Bonne nuit et bons rêves! (good night and sweet dreams!)


ps. More pictures going on facebook within the day so keep checking!

FUN-E-TIKS IS PHUHN!

Not much new and exciting to report, so this will be brief. Sunday was a pretty relaxed day. The picnic Saturday night went much later than we all expected - apparently the Seine is the place to be! We met so many other French people our age and had lots of fun. I was challenged by a few of them/made a deal that involved me doing the cha-cha slide (you know, like the bat mitzvah dance?) and let me tell you: that will go down in my history books. There is nothing quite as entertaining as being all-american and cha-cha-ing on the Seine for the French. Apparently I have a funny accent too...
I maintain my previous statement: French men are a different breed than American ones. Forward is an understatement, but it makes for interesting conversations on cultural differences?


Anyways, the last few days have been a little rough (probably why I don't have much to blog about). This is the point in the program where I think everyone feels the distance from home. We're in-between real classes and this intensive class, over the novelty of arriving, but not fully transitioned. The time change doesn't help, and as I've said, French education is a whole new game. Nothing like reaping the benefits of Louis XIV to fix this problem! Shoes and a dress later, lots of pastries, and passing the Eiffel Tour on my way home from school (it really is monumental - never ceases to amaze me with its size), and I'm on my way back! 


Phonetics class has turned into half physiology, half a massive dance party and funny noises. Apparently, French is musical, so all sounds much be sung. I'd pay to sit outside and listen to this class. Its so much fun! Every sound not only gets sung, but gets a dance movement as well. 10 girls, Patrick the Prof, and the best class ever! Its exhausting because Americans don't articulate anything, so its a real mouth workout learning to make all the sounds. The physiological half means I am spending lots of time positioning my entire body in a very specific way to find a sound appropriate in the French language; certainly not a sound that I've ever had to use before. Today, I had to get the stereotypically French-sounding "euhh." Only once I slouched in my chair and tipped my head back far enough to see the wall behind me did I get a "C'est Superbe! Parfait" from Patrick. On and on this goes. I love phonetics. If premed doesn't work out...(just kidding!) But really. Phonetics is so PHUN! 


Lots of homework to finish, and a skype date with my roommate and best friends from school coming up! Only 3 days left of the intensive class...it can't come too soon!


Tomorrow morning I am waking up early to go to the Sorbonne and register for my classes there...free education here means extreme disorganization in the schools.  But seriously? NYU isn't exactly known for its beauty, so what could be better than THE Sorbonne, beautifully built in the center of French life? I can officially say I attend the Sorbonne as of tomorrow! Plus, lunch will only be 2.50 euros :) What an adventure this will be!! I hope they have the right class for me.


Bonne Nuit! Vous me manquent tous! (I miss you all!) And will be posting more pictures shortly....

Chez Claude

Today was simply unbelievable. I can't tell you much about it because words don't really describe how impressive Monet's gardens and home in Giverny were! A group of us left on an early train this morning to go out to the countryside and see where the famous impressionist lived. It was difficult getting up this morning because last night was a late one!

We started the night with a Rosh Hashanah dinner. Kate and I had spent the morning in the old Jewish Quarter of the Marais buying challah and other sorts of holiday foods. (I'm going to leave out the part of the morning when we tried going to services at an all-men synagogue. Oops.) After visiting all the little Jewish boulangeries, we went to class (did well on my essay and phonetics tests!) and raced to my apartment to get started on dinner! About 15 of us ate dinner and did shabbat - only a few of us were Jewish so it was really nice. Afterwards, we went out for the night to this very cool bar called Le Crocodille, or The Crocodile. Its a popular place for many French students to hang out and its located in an area with great night life. They serve over 500 different drinks and each one comes with a gummy crocodile in it! The best part was that its near where I'm going to attend classes, so I finally got to see my university! The Sorbonne is very impressive! After meeting up with friends later on, we finally got back to our apartment.

No one on the train this morning knew what to expect from Giverny. Though I can't say much, I will say that I have never been somewhere quite as serene and peaceful. Everything was so unreal, but natural, its a wonder why the world relies so much on manufactured products! Never have I seen such bright shades of color, and never have I smelled anything like this! We were especially lucky because its rare to see the lily pads in bloom and we had full flowers! The best part of the day was sitting on a bench next to the Japanese Bridge and writing. I had two pieces of luck happen to me there, and we all know about my superstitions!
1. A leaf fell directly into my notebook. Someone once told me its good luck of a leaf falls on you. I don't know if its true, but I'll take any good omen I can get!
2. A YELLOW ladybug landed  on my shoulder. Regular red ladybugs are lucky, so a yellow one must be super fortunate! Or maybe just evil... I'm going to hope the winds are in my favor!

It helps that we couldn't have asked for a more perfect day: hot in the sun, cool in the shade, perfect breeze. Its no wonder that Giverny is known for providing impressionistic art. Being there evoked a certain kind of internal personal presence. The experience was about how the colors, light, and nature made you feel individually, which is, after all, the philosophy behind impressionism. Monet was so lucky to wake up to these gardens every day! I could live there and never leave! His home is timeless - still fashioned in its original way, and would still be considered charming and classy today. We had lunch at a small cafe near by and headed home late in the afternoon. Truly a day spent in paradise - I felt like Alice in Wonderland!

     

Since tomorrow is Sunday, everything is closed so we stopped on the way home to buy groceries for the week (with the exception of fruits and veggies - those come from the market tomorrow morning).

Tonight will be spent on the Seine! Its about 10:00 here and my housemate and I are getting ready to head over to the picnic meeting spot. Its popular here for students and young people to spend one night of the weekend picnicking and meeting other people on the Seine near Notre Dame, so maybe we'll make some more French friends! Who knows what will happen after that - it's always an adventure here in Paris!

Shanah Tova!

Last night I didn't get a chance to update like I thought I would - yesterday was a bad day (as bad as a day in Paris can be anyway). Luckily, my friends insisted I get a celebratory gift and we spent the night watching the Sex and the City series finale. For all you fans out there, you all know that that means Sex and the City: An American Girl In Paris, Part Une. Gotta love when Big follows her, gotta love her outfits, gotta cringe when she falls in Dior. The best part of having a bad day in Paris is the food. My friends surprised me and showed up to my apartment with the biggest ball of chocolate chip bread (aka something unknown but DELICIOUS) and that was after having kept me eating all day long! (As a side note, the French are always eating, and never eat on-the-go,  I don't know what they do all day! Never have I endorsed eating as such a hobby though - the novelty of amazing food never gets old and remains pure bliss). Later on, I ended up skyping and catching up with a very old friend from high school - a real mood-changer. As under-the-weather as I felt yesterday, my friends made me feel great! 


Today is Rosh Hashanah! Although I wish I was home for this holiday, the cultural experience I got instead was great. Kate and I woke up early and went to services at the Orthodox synagogue: Synagogue de la Victoire. It was the biggest synagogue I've ever seen (beautiful and daunting) but was unfortunately not even close to filled up. I guess that's representative of the Jewish population here. I can only imagine how empty it is on a normal Shabbat. Women had to sit separately from men so it was a bummer that we saw everything from a funny angle. Kate put it perfectly; for the orthodox, women are simply "glass citizens." Even though there was a gender separation, a hierarchy was very clear. The women related to prevalent men sat in the front of our section and exchanged words with the rabbi (minimal contact, but more than everyone else). We weren't sure about the dress-code so to be safe, we both wore black flats, tights, skirts, sweaters. If I don't say so myself, we looked just about as conservatively Jewish as one can get - almost orthodox! We were very pleased with ourselves because we already stand out as Americans and didn't want to draw further attention. Good thing the elderly women all wore Chanel suits, and the younger girls were all in brightly colored heels. Tomorrow we are trying a different synagogue (just to compare), but we will most certainly dress our chic-est!





Even though I hated that women were ignored during the service, that the women therefore talked amongst themselves the whole time, and that I couldn't follow along, the service was awe-inspiring nonetheless. When the rabbi blew the shofar, I thought of everyone together at home and it was the first time I really felt the power of everyone practicing these rituals simultaneously! The best part, though, was the rabbi's sermon (I NEVER thought I would say that...) It was in French! And it was the first time I listened to something not designed for me to practice my listening skills. Though I didn't get all of it, I got the gist of Rosh Hashanah being a contradiction of celebration and judgement (a very good sermon) and it was truly an "I have arrived in Paris! I am here!" moment. I acted as part of the regular population! Very very cool. Très très chouette!


No separation of church and state here, so after services, off I went to class! An in-class essay and an oral exam later and the "I arrived feeling" was pretty much gone. I had lots of homework and reading to do tonight, as well as make a bunch of Shanah Tova phone calls (great talking to everyone and hearing all your voices) so not much exciting news to report right now.


I'm only going to services for a short while tomorrow because I need to help prepare and shop for dinner tomorrow night at my apartment! A bunch of us are celebrating the holiday and doing Shabbat via cooking a festive meal of chicken, challah apples and honey, etc. etc and going all out (and then all going out)!  Should be lots of fun, but there's nothing like being home for the holidays.


**SABRINA: don't forget my checklist of activities to keep you entertained at services! I miss you and all of our games this year...next year we'll have to be extra _________ during services!!!! 
(our word and Mom's word might be different here. We say awesome, she might say rowdy)**


In other news, the strike is finally over! All of the trains have been super crowded and running so slow.
I am also in the process of planning a trip to Giverny this weekend since we don't know how many more nice weekends we have left.
Back to studying for my phonetics exam tomorrow...


Happy healthy sweet wonderful New Year and all good things to come! L'shanah tova and lots of love to all!
À bientôt!

First day of school! First day of school!

Yesterday was my first day of school! Well, kind of...

But before I discuss my discovery of the true meaning of the phrase “work ethic,” let me get us all on the same page!

A quick game of catch up:

Sunday: The weather = parfait. A group of us went to the Rodin Museum (lucky choice - free admission!) and spent the morning wandering throughout his sculpture garden and home. I believe that he is the most recent of truly noteworthy and influential sculptors. It was great because I got to go with both fellow art history majors and non-art majors: certainly made for interesting discussions! I also ran into a girl I know from Columbia there. What a small world! (Speaking of small worlds - one of the boys from my trip to Israel several summers ago is living a block away from me, but I digress...) The museum was followed by an excursion to La Durée, the celebrated macaroon place. On the walk there we saw a fight in the street and a bunch of Frenchmen get arrested! I've seen a bunch of fights now; these Frenchmen are certainly passionate and I've learned it’s dangerous to mix passion with a mean right hook…

     

                                   

Because it was Sunday, everything was closed except for the flea markets. When we returned, I wandered around the neighborhood and bought fresh fruits and veggies. I also passed by one of the argumentatively greatest cheese shops in Paris - its right by my apartment! Apparently the men who help you choose the cheese wear tuxedos. It was closed (Sunday) so I will definitely be returning there. Our landlady's husband stopped by at night with a little gift for us Sunday night! His hobby is pressing and bottling his own wine, so he brought us a 'homemade' bottle as a house warming gift! The French, despite their reputations at home, have been nothing but warm and gracious to us.

Monday: Academic orientation. All of a sudden my entire world turned into French. You might be reading this thinking, “well what did she expect!?” and I assure you, it was not this. Everything from class registration instructions, to personal questions for professors, to many of the conversations between my peers and myself, was in French. For the most part, this was ok. The problems came during the meeting for students who planned of enrolling directly into the PU system (Parisian University). As the director so honestly put it (in French of course), we do not know the meaning of hard work. “The French have been working hard, the way we have started to have to do in college, since the age of 3, and so they have been conditioned to an entirely different system. No, we do not yet know the meaning of perseverance and hard work.” 

Great. So here I am. An American student who was planning on taking classes at the Sorbonne for fun and taking an easy semester before returning to the tortuous life and black hole that all pre-med students endure. HA. So I hope I can prepare myself for the French-styled art history classes, entailing a 1-2 hour oral presentation in front of the 200+ French students. Or, rather, I hope they can get ready for me! I must now learn the entirely different way in which they write essays. Goodbye hamburger formatting (with meat paragraphs and all) from 5^th grade. All cynicism aside, though, I am excited to take this on and I hear the French professors adore American students, especially in the art world. Apparently we bring a much more creative perspective to the table; the French tend to be more rigid in their thinking. Wish me luck! At night, 2 of my housemates and I gathered around a computer and watched Titanic. Poor choice - lots of tears, gotta love Leo. What a movie.

Tuesday: First day of school! First day of school! (Just so you know, those words should be said in the voice of Nemo in his opening scene…God I miss pixar!) Today I started the 2-week 2 credit French intensive class that will prepare me for the French methodology of essay writing/teaching. This way, the culture shock won’t be so bad when my real classes start. 4 hours a day, everyday, reading, writing, phonetics, French, French, French! My professors (two of them) are dynamic, funny, and just the epitome of wonderful. I wish I could bring them home with me! French seems to be taking over my mind. Last night I went to go study at Charles’ café (a person, not the name of a café - good to be friends with the café owners nearby). 

On another note, I bought a very chic hat! Let the shopping dangers of living in Paris commence…

(From now on, I will try to update every day so the posts aren’t so long. Later tonight will be today’s post!)

Settling in the 15th

Bonjour, or since its 18:00 here, bonsoir! (I am attempting to adjust to army time). The last few days have been such a whirlwind that I am not even sure what to tell you all...I apologize in advance for how long this post will be - we have a lot to catch up on!

Upon landing, I took a cab to the FIAP (hostel). My cab driver was a lovely Portuguese man who told me all about the different mentalities among the immigrating Arabs and native Parisians. He was very interested in talking politics as well – most cab drivers are. The night before, he also bought his 17-year-old daughter a moped as a congratulatory gift for starting her last year of high school! How nice!

The hostel was nice, clean, friendly, had free bad food, and lacked hot water. Needless to say, I couldn't wait to move out. You all know how I like to nest! Lucky for me, we had "Landlord Coaching 101" (I kid you not) the following day at the NYU site, and when we met with my landlady (Barbara) that evening, she was nice enough to let us move in immediately! Most landlords immediately wanted a full payment of security deposit and first month’s rent, but mine just wanted us to have hot showers.

I am living in the 15^th arrondissement with three other girls in an enormous and luminous quintessential Parisian apartment - no amenity left behind! We each have our own spacious rooms - we converted the "salon" (breakfast room) into a large bedroom - a full, modern, kitchen, living room, 2 showers, and 2 bathrooms! We also are lucky enough to have a washer and dryer and wifi, all of which are rare to have in a home in France. Did I mention every room has floor to ceiling windows that open onto small terraces with flower baskets? To top it all, I have a fireplace in my room! It is truly a dream come true – visitors at any time (ahem, ahem Amanda!) I will post pictures in the days to come. Up until today, I have been trying to get my bearings in this very dangerously great shopping neighborhood, food shopping, and unpacking. Finally it’s starting to look just like home!

Each day has been filled with meetings, orientation sessions, placement tests, administrative issues, and very forward older men. Apparently, its totally appropriate here for men to stop you on the street, tell you you’re pretty, and invite you for “zee drinks latayer zat eevuhning” (drinks later that evening). I have also learned that my name is nearly impossible to pronounce. It sounds something like “eeeee-lah-reeee.” Talk about culture differences! This is the norm.

I can’t wait for classes and a routine day to start. Until then, all orientation has taken place in Passy, the neighborhood in the 16^th arrondissment where NYU is located. It’s a very peaceful, wealthier area; many retirees make it quaint, classy, and very safe. The NYU site is also wonderful (I feel like I’m over using that word but everything really is wonderful!) It resembles a building from the story Madeline! The windows on the ground floor have colored glass and flowers and green and trees are everywhere. Again, I’ll have pictures to try and do this justice shortly.

Today I woke up early and went for breakfast with two friends, both of whom lived on my floor last year. There is nothing quite like a “pain au chocolat” fresh and warm in the morning – sheer bliss, so much so that anything on your mind instantly disappears. We then took the metro over to their apartment (also great) and walked a very long way along the Seine until voilà! Straight ahead there it was... La Tour Eiffel. It’s been exciting to pass on my way to school everyday, but it is truly magical to sit underneath and picnic. We walked to a cute boulangerie nearby and bought cheese,  baguettes, and a box of Le Petit Écolier cookies, and sat among flowers to enjoy and take lots of pictures.

Later in the afternoon, we took a very long walk along the Seine and passed notable monuments of the city. I’m not sure you know the scale of the city (I didn’t), but its expansive and not as easy to walk as New York. The weather was too wonderful to pass up, you see, so we walked from the Eiffel Tower all the way to Notre Dame to meet up with another friend. I assure you, this was a very long walk. It was beautiful and we needed to walk off the huge baguette anyways. Our final destination made it entirely worth it. Across from Notre Dame is the café known for serving Paris’ best ice cream: Berthillon. The dark chocolate ice cream was TO DIE FOR - and I’m a very picky ice cream eater! I suppose this is the equivalent to New York’s Grimauldis – wait on a long line, so worth it. Anyone who comes: I promise you will taste this delight! The dark chocolate ice cream tasted like pure chocolate and even the cone tasted fresher!

Tonight is one of my friends’ birthdays so we are all going for a fondue dinner and a night out on the town. Now that we’re all settled, time to get to know the Latin Quarter! Tomorrow is Sunday so everything is closed except museums. Since the weather won’t be nice for much longer, I think we are going to the outdoor Rodin Museum. I’ll let you know.

Gros Bisous to one and all!